Day 6c - An Evening In Paris

For events of Wednesday, September 2, 2009

7:15 PM - Couldn't seem to find the fitness centre anywhere in the building, thought it's clearly mentioned in the Services guide to the hotel, and is shown on the map. Went down to the concierge desk to discover that in fact they don't have one - a private gym is close by and they take hotel guests - for 25€ a day, and the entrance is outside! Not terribly impressed, but too busy to use it much anyway. Just nice at night to have a hot tub after a long day of walking. Concierge tonight was a bit of a jerk - what it is with this desk? They got bad reviews on several sites - if I took over this hotel, all of them would be replaced on day 1.

7:20 PM - decided to go for supper and I want to try a place I saw by the Arc the other day, that seemed to have really cheap menu - called Les Aigles. Hopefully the food quality doesn't match the prices!

7:30 PM - Grand Armée was really busy tonight as I walked first toward the Arc. Lots of activity both on the road and in all the stores. City is really busy after about 6:00 - I still can't quite figure out what is rush hour and what's people going out for the evening - so many businessmen walking by right now leads me to believe they keep late hours in the office here.

The bakery I saw on the Monday morning, that smelled so good (Boulangerie Patisseries) was still open and saw it probably would be after I ate supper as well, so decided to stop in and check it out later.

7:50 PM - some other tourists helped me get a shot in front of the Arc, which was nice, but I found that I took the better picture on my own tonight - with the camera's timer. I'm not sure what it is about people and cameras, but it seems that I get so many crappy shots from people who are trying to "help me out". I'm always grateful, but most of them get deleted after. So I've gotten relatively good at finding a level spot, aiming the camera and getting in at the right place in the frame so I can take it myself. I always worry about people walking off with my camera anyway, and language is sometimes a problem here.

8:03 PM - walked back to Les Aigles and was a bit concerned that neighbouring restaurants had a lot of people in them, but it was empty. I decided to take the risk, however, because I was hungry (was always told to look for the restaurant with a line-up, but that's not always the best indicator in Paris). I got a table that looks out on Grand Armée (see picture left, click for larger) - technically inside still, but sitting right at sidewalk level, and there's no wall in front me - watching Paris go by.

I ordered a glass of rose and a cheeseburger - they had steaks, pastas, etc. but I thought they would take too long and I was starving already. Trust me a hamburger in Paris is always much fancier than it sounds (see picture right, click for larger). The burger itself was very gourmet - lots of different spices in it, and clearly home made, along with the bun. The fries weren't anything to write home about but were OK. When I first arrived, the waiter brought me a little bowl of popcorn that clearly was made fresh and theatre style, and very good!. The Arc, as you can see in the picture above, was just half a block from my semi-outdoor table.

8:08 PM - I've noticed in Paris that all waiters everywhere wear either all black, or a white shirt and black pants - adds a nice touch even to the smallest little cafe restaurant, which I would consider this to be. I finished eating and got a few nice dusk shots of the restaurant and the Arc. I probably won't come down this way again, so said my goodbyes to this beautiful work of art on the street (see picture right, click for larger). I truly hate this camera with a passion - it just can't figure out low light at all, but whatever - it is what it is.

I then started to slowly walk back to the hotel. It's not a very nice night outside tonight - windy and cold, and drops of rain here and there. I was going to do the Eiffel Tower but decided to defer to later in the week when the weather was supposed to improve - though I'll do it regardless by Friday night so I don't miss it!

I walked the two blocks back to the Boulangerie Patisserie (bakery - see picture right, click for larger). It smelled like heaven - not just breads and buns but all kinds of other wonders - from freshly made pizza to white chocolate golf balls (yes, they looked exactly like a golf ball), and cookies that took two hands to hold they were so big. I decided on a huge cookie that I'll show later. They open at 9:00 AM, I was told, so will try to come by and grab something early morning one day, as the Parisians do!

I decided to walk down Grand Armée on the other side to look in the store windows, so crossed the street outside the bakery. They had a Lamborghini store at the start of that block, but sadly no cars on display. In fact, it almost looked they sold the cars from catalogs and videos!

However, next door they had a Peugeot dealership - which you see everywhere here, but aren't terribly memorable - the second largest car company in Europe (Renault is largest). The brand Citroën is part of the same family, which may ring bells with us older folks. This dealership was related to a larger Victorie! next door - the one with the two cars on revolving displays above two others. What I didn't see on Monday morning was a turn-of-the-century Peugeot (1900) in the front window (see picture right, click for larger) which seemed to be in perfect condition. Nothing really to look at, but added some character to the block.

8:45 PM - It was getting really windy now and clouds quickly made it black outside. By the time I got to the end of the block I was on, it started just pouring, so had to run back to the room. So glad I didn't do Eiffel Tower or boat cruise tonight - what a miserable mess that would be in an open-air boat.

9:00 PM - Safely got back to my room and had my cookie. It was reaaaaaaaally good, and for 2€ it better be! Regardless of the price, I wish I'd bought three of them! It was made of oats and nuts, and held together with some kind of maple syrup "glue", and then dipped on one side in chocolate (picture left, click for larger). When you first bit into it, it was crunchy like peanut brittle - but when you held it in your mouth it melted quickly down to pure crystalline sugar somehow. Amazing.

10:00 PM - Was watching TFI, a French network, as I got ready for bed. They had a French crime show that was like watching a horror movie - I couldn't believe it. The story was about a Canadian pig farmer who was butchering male prostitutes - sounding strangely like Robert Pickton (though he was after women prostitutes). Now, we've all heard of dramas that are 'ripped from the headlines', but rarely have I seen one so graphic. So ridiculous.

Day 6b - "I See Dead People" - The Catacombs of Paris

For the events of Wednesday, September 3, 2009
Warning: Some of the photos in this blog entry may not be suitable for younger audiences, or the squeamish. No kidding - viewer discretion is advised

2:46 PM - I quickly made my way to the RER station with my pre-purchased ticket.

2:53 PM - when I walked into the station, a well dressed black guy came up to me and asked something in French - maybe for change or to come through turnstile with me? I told him in French that I didn't understand, put my ticket in and walked through. Next thing I know he jumped the turnstile behind me and a very sloppy, long-haired and bearded 'security' guard called him back. I just kept going - not my problem.

I have an iPhone app that will tell me what the closest RER and Metro station is to any address in Paris, and another portion of the same app can advise how to get from my station to that one (what system / line/ station to take and transfer to).

Came in very handy doing research for myself and some of the TTS staff at the booth this morning, as we all made our touring plans today - I was able to do some homework during the slow time in the Congress booth this morning (and with free Wi-Fi!) to figure out several sites I want to see, and took notes in the iPhone. So basically, I am carrying around a tour guide in my pocket! I want to avoid maps and bags so I look local, and with a light jacket and zippered pockets I can carry everything I need and look non-touristy.

It took awhile, with my iPhone app to figure out final station of the RER C line, which passes the station I want to go to. The final station gives you the direction you need to go, and the resulting platform and train to go on. The monitors also listed all the stations that the next train approaching will go to. RER lines have maybe 20 stops total, and every 2nd train approx. does every 2nd stop so each train's stations list is about 10 long - easy to read.

Metro is a bit more complicated as they have a shorter route but way more stations on the line, but they stop at everyone so it's a more forgiving system. If you get off on the wrong RER station it's a hassle to cross over to the other platform (the platform isn't usually in the middle of the train lines), and then sometimes you wait two trains to go back where you started from to try again.

My C line ends at Dourdan or Massy (it branches off and ends at two different stations, thus why every second train stops different places, as each eventually goes a different way). I don't go to the end of the line though - I get off at St.-Michel station and change to the Metro (subway) train. St.-Michel is one of many transfer stations in Paris, like Columbia or Broadway in Vancouver.

I need to pass about 10 stops on the C line (RER) to get there going east, and then I transfer to B Line (RER), ending at Denfert Rochereau, about 5 stops going south. System says it will take 37 min total - and need to be at my destination, the Catacombs of Paris, before 4:00 PM (the last admission of the day).

Had to pull out my wallet to look at an RER map. Man I hate 50 and 100 euro bills - they are bigger than the others and are so tall that they stick out the top of most wallets - making them really easy to spot if someone's looking.

The RER train that arrived a few minutes after I got to the platform was a bit old and needed new seats, but was relatively clean and still pre-rush hour, so relatively quiet. The way back should be more interesting as rush hour will be full on. Something I've never seen on transit before - bathrooms! I guess that's a must on a commuter train due to time and distances you are on (some lines are more than an hour from Start/End points)

3:12 PM - love the station names. Passed the Eiffel Tower a few stations ago, and just left Invalides. Next is Orsay, where the world-famed Museum by the same name is located - and yes I plan to go at some point but not today. Next stop is St-Michel where I change trains.

3:15 PM - arrive at St-Michel, and again, I don't know why the station doesn't go by its more famous name - Notre Dame!

3:21 PM - Transferred to RER B line. A bit more confusing - they use an older system which has all stations listed on a big board with lights beside each station name. Just before the next train arrives it lights up with the stations that train goes to, and you stand there studying the board like a Bingo game, with lots of other people trying to do the same. It's roughly the same principle as the monitors but harder to read.

Next train coming is the one I get on, in one minute. I'm glad to, because this is clearly an older, creepy area of town. Have to be a bit more alert here - no wallets or other valuables showing. When I first came to the B Line platform (and I'm not sure if I'm beside, under or over the C Line one - you go through these rats mazes that don't tell you what direction you are going or anything) some guy walked to me and handed some French newspaper and then started talking to me.

I tried to hand it back when I saw it was €3.50 - even the London Times isn't that much! Clearly this was some charity thing - I deal with enough of this in YVR so handed it back and he kept talking. Finally dropped it on the floor and walked away. Station needed to be burned down and rebuilt. It was a filthy, scuzzy disaster.

Got on the next train. Different lines have different type of trains, much like in Boston. This looks much more like a traditional commuter train with 2 seats facing each other in groups of 4, and only 1 level (see picture left, click for larger). This station, unlike others I'd seen, was above-ground, and the trains were only one-level, not like the 2-level larger trains on the C Line going to Versailles (where they need the extra capacity).

3:40 PM - I got off at Denfert-Rochereau station and headed for exit, realizing as I did that I knew which station to go to, but not where from there - and didn't bring phrasebook or map to ask directions or find them myself! Hmmm, sometimes being a tourist has its privileges. Thank god for iPhone. I had paid for 4 MB of international data - plenty for using map applications, before I left Vancouver, in case I need them.

Ahh, nothing like the smell of human urine as you leave the station.

When I got to the street above, a traffic circle was in front of me, and I swear all the buildings looked just like the ones at the Palais des Congres area - like the buildings of Paris shared one set of blueprints for the whole city. Certainly cost effective - not terribly attractive. I clearly was in the poorer area of the city, judging by the people shuffling in and out of the station. The first smell that hit me was garbage heating in the sun. Yum. A very grey day here now, looks like rain at any time. Also, a statue of a lion graces the middle of the traffic circle, with the words "a la Defense Nationale 1870-1871" - representing the final siege of Paris in the Franco-Prussian War (which France lost) (see picture right, click for larger)
For Canadians who have never seen an invading army on our shores, it's hard to imagine an enemy army occupying our cities. The citizens of Paris have been invaded and conquered by the Prussians in 1814 and finally by the Nazis in June 1940. In every situation, they fought back against their occupiers and pushed them out - though some would argue the Germans stayed far longer than their welcome needed to be in World War II, due to Nazi sympathizers here, which are still a sore spot in France to this day.

There was a sign right outside the train station leading you to the Catacombs, which pointed to the right. I soon learned it made zero sense, and once you walked toward where it pointed, there were no follow-up signs to lead you to the Catacombs (see picture left, click for larger). Yet, right in front of you was a walkway that led to a little park situated in the centre of the traffic circle - and the Catacomb entrance was in that park. Why on earth not point straight ahead? I soon learned this wasn't exactly Paris' most famous tourist attraction, but possibly (for a history buff like me) one of its most amazing. In fact, bar none, I think this is the most eye-opening thing I've maybe ever paid to see in my life - and I may see it in my mind for the . You'll soon see why.

The Catacombs of Paris or Catacombes de Pari are a famous underground ossuary (graveyard of bones) in Paris, organized in an old abandoned limestone quarry towards the end of the 18th century, and open to the public since 1867. The l'Ossuaire Municipal (as it is officially known) was just outside the city gates before Paris expanded in 1860, and though it covers only a small section of the city's vast underground tunnels, Parisians today refer to the entire system as "the Catacombs".

Most of Paris's larger churches once had their own cemeteries, but city growth and generations of dead (including thousands who died in the Plague) began to overwhelm them. From the 1780s, Paris' largest Les Innocents cemetery was so full, people living nearby were suffering from disease due to contamination caused by improper burials, open mass graves, and dirt charged with decomposing organic matter. Yah, as I said before, viewer discretion is advised!

The city soon condemned all the graveyards in Paris, and created three new suburban ones. The remains of all condemned cemeteries were then moved quietly to this abandoned limestone quarry, and their bones were piled, in some cases in interesting patterns, throughout the tunnels of the old mine. Victor Hugo used his knowledge about the tunnel system to write the famous book (and later Broadway play) Les Misérables. During World War II, Parisian members of the French Resistance used the tunnel system, and German soldiers also established an underground bunker in the catacombs below Lycée.

3:45 PM - The entrance was hardly noticeable (see picture right, click for larger) - just a little sign above a door telling you that you had arrived. Oddly, people sitting right outside the building could not tell me where the Catacombs were, and they clearly lived in the area. Odd. I paid the clearly unenthusiastic ticket lady my €8, got my ticket, and entered the building. I went to a spiral staircase carved out of the stone and circled farther and farther into the depths of the city. In fact, an American behind me counted out 130 steps as we went down. I had to stop for a second because the spiral staircase was so tight and went so long, I got really dizzy after awhile.

Note to those who are overweight, out of shape, have unsure footing or need assistance to walk - skip this attraction altogether. The only thing that is handicap-accessible here is the front door. Nope, just remembered, there were stairs walking up to it too. And for Heaven's sake, leave your kids at home if you come - it'll scare the crap out of them.

When you finally got into the centre of the earth (so it felt), a sign greeted you with the cheery announcement that you had to walk 500 metres ahead (that's 1/2 a kilometre!) to the actual Catacomb site - in dark, wet, smelly tunnels that were barely lit (see pictures left an, click for larger). We weren't allowed to use flash down there to "respect the dead" (not that they would know the difference).

I was by myself and wasn't even sure if anyone else was in the entire tunnel system ahead of me, but could hear voices behind me and so I relaxed a bit. I can't watch horror movies because they give me nightmares, so it would easy to guess how technicolor my fears were becoming so far down here, with dim lights, a huge fear of rats (I learned there were none), no idea what was ahead - and knowing that eventually I'd stumble upon thousands of dead people. Oh, and a guy my height had to walk bent over the whole way, because apparently the people who dug these tunnels worked for the Wizard of Oz before they got this gig - the tunnel barely was 5'10" high in places.

I was also wearing sandals and kept stepping in water - my mind raced about where that water washed by, or what kind of pipes it came out of in the first place (i.e. sewers?). In places it dripped on you too. I wanted to get the heck out of there after about 10 minutes. I'm glad I didn't.

By this point I met up with a few people, who seemed to be from the US, and found out later some were, so I felt better. At least I wasn't alone or in a dungeon full of language barriers as well. I didn't understand what the pictures were for sure, but they were dead people's bodies with their clothes on, lying in little open crypts. I'm assuming some of the burial areas were like this at one. I quickly moved on, as I know that would have disturbed my sleep later for sure.

Walked toward another tunnel...and there they were. Leering at you, their arms, legs, ribs, etc. all piled in nice little piles. The dead of Paris. Miles of tunnels full of their bones (we only saw a small portion of it). Nearly 1700 years worth of them - one article I read indicated Paris has 6 million dead within its borders, and as many as 1/2 of them were buried here. Cremation was unheard of until the turn of the century in sophisticated France. I saw more than a few smashed skulls or with little holes in their heads (guns maybe?), some with half the skull missing, or arms and leg bones smashed almost into powder. You were scared to breathe in there because you didn't know what you were breathing in, but I was strangely not uncomfortable with the skulls themselves. The best place to get pictures was right at the opening of the Catacombs, and an American offered to help (see picture right, click for larger). I know I know, I look just like them.

If our tunnel alone were above ground, it would have gone for probably another 1/2 a km. the piles were up to 5'6" high, at least 10-15' wide and went probably another 1/2 a km on both sides, branching off down side tunnels we were not allowed to go into. Can you imagine the ghost stories?

Sometimes there would be a little memorial where the bones of one former condemned cemetery were placed. There were little altars and crosses, etc. - all made out of bones throughout. Hard to explain, but it was both hard to believe and at the same time, was probably the most realistic thing I've ever seen in my life. The finality of death, and how every single person walking this earth will one day look just like this. In this pile were lords and ladies, lepers and losers. Governors and garbage men. A sign at the front said that many mayors of Paris, government officials, Archbishops and others were placed here. Only Cardinal Richelieu, the Kings and royal families of France and Napoleon and his family were allowed a special burial out of nearly 1800 years of dead people - in the cases of the named above, within the floor of Notre Dame Cathedral and other such locations. They were not allowed to exhume bodies and move them to the new cemeteries created - those were reserved for future generations only. Death truly is the great equalizer.

After spending an hour down there, I had enough and wanted out - I was really creeped out by this point, because I started thinking about the fact they were people one, not just these movie props I saw in front of me. But when I saw the special memorial for little kids - hundreds of them, I decided I had to get out of there right now. It took nearly 10 minutes just to get back to street level again. I was up the stairs before I knew it - I couldn't wait to get out of there. On the way up, I kept stepping in water that was running from somewhere. My feet were all wet because I wore sandals. Ugh, I was so disgusted but so glad to see sunlight again.

4:59 PM - However, I would have assumed street level would have meant "back where you started from" but of course that wasn't the case. I have no clue where I am, but came up on a Metro station named Alesia so I'm ok now- my iPhone app can help me now. If the battery doesn't go dead - it's at 10% now from all the typing I've done on it.

I exited out of the Catacombs into a back alley for starters, so I didn't even know which street to walk toward. There are no signs leading back to the main traffic areas. It seems I'm now in a totally different part of town, with cute little shops and very busy streets and sidewalks. The first thing you notice when you get back to the street (as you exit into an alley), was a huge church (see picture right, click for larger). I felt like I needed to either go pray or go hide - it was such a welcome relief to see living people everywhere!

5:04 PM - Alesia station (see picture left, click for larger) is 2 stops from Denfert - that's how far we walked to the Catacombs. I must be more than a mile away from the other station. It said it would take 500 m just to get to the Catacombs and then much more after, but I never stopped to think what that would mean underground vs. above ground.

These trains were like LRT streetcars (see picture right, click for larger), and you turned a little hand crank to make the doors open, which was different. I quickly got back to Denfert Rocherau and walked to RER B transfer.

Transit here takes a lot if brain power to figure out where you're going. Wow, this was complicated but with the map I got from RER attendant on the first day and the app I have, plus some previous travel experience I quickly figured out I needed to go in direction of Charles de Gaulle airport a few stops (back to Notre Dame), then change back to C line back to hotel. It's Rush hour now, so time to get my game face on. Way too obvious I'm not from here. I need to study the map next time so getting lost (and especially looking like it) isn't an issue.

Also need to carry my hand sanitizer! I'm not even licking my lips after being on Paris trains and soaking up the run-off of dead people on my shoes. A lady I talked to said at the more-famous Catacombs of Rome, you don't even see the dead. "I saw dead people". Hopefully not in my dreams tonight, however.

5:20 PM- Arrived at St-Michel station and went close to the C train entrance. Was trying to remember which way to go and looked at a map for help, and an older couple were doing the same beside me. I asked if they needed help in English and here they were here from Seattle! I told them where I was from and we had a great chat while I went with them back to Invalides station, where they needed to transfer (I kept going on the same line all the way back to Porte Maillot, where the Palais des Congres is). You could tell they were relieved to have a (practically) hone-town guy sharing thoughts with them on Paris, and I enjoyed it too.

5:35 PM - arrived at Porte Maillot and went back to the hotel to shower and change - I couldn't wait to wash my hands especially, and then wiped down my camera, etc. with a wet cloth. I may not be a 100% germophobe but man, you sure become one after that!

Day 6a - Last Morning at the Congress

For events of Wednesday, September 2, 2009

6:45 AM - woke up easily to TV alarm, not tired at all. I opened the window in my room (it opens enough to get a little fresh air in) and it's really chilly outside this morning for sure, but they said it was going to be clear and sunny. Lots of pinks in the sky as the sun rose behind the Eiffel Tower, so snapped a picture (see picture right, click for larger).

Got a few emails from my Mom and responded back. I wasn't sure if they were able to see my blog or not at the lake, so glad they were able to follow along.

7:15 AM - Went to the first floor Arc en Ciel (Arch in the Sky) restaurant buffet area for my daily breakfast. It's become pretty routine - I walk up to the same girl at a front counter outside the food area, with a security guard standing nearby. She asks for my room number and checks me off a list. I grab a free copy of the Guardian newspaper every morning, and head in.

However, I discover new things every breakfast - today there was a 4th juice besides orange, apple, grapefruit but couldn't quite figure out what it is - apricot maybe? Tried it and still couldn't tell, but really good though. Also, there was a jam table with many kinds, and a cereal table too!

We are waking up to learn that British Prime Minister Gordon Brown, who seemed so angry about the Libyan bomber going free from Scotland recently, was in fact possibly involved in the release, even if indirectly. He told his Justice Minister he didn't want the mass murderer to "pass away in a Scottish jail" in the first place. People in the UK are furious with him, and we learned later today that in fact, the Scottish government lost a vote related to the release, but it fell just short of a confidence vote (i.e. no election will be called - yet). This seems to be much bigger news here than it was in Canada when I was leaving there.

Also, Russian Prime Minister Putin, who I have always thought is pure evil in disguise, made comments in Poland yesterday comparing Stalin's pact with Hitler to Roosevelt's with Churchill. Considering he made it in Poland, at the 70th anniversary of the German invasion of that country, that took either real guts or he's totally insane. I go for the latter. Russia is trying to repaint Stalin as a good man, and in fact one of his grandchildren is suing newspapers and publishers for printing that Stalin ordered his own people killed (we know, however, that 25 million Russians died at the hands of Stalin's orders). Putin, as I've said to people for years, is one to watch - I think he's the next Hitler.

BBC says it is supposed to be 19C and cloudy today.

8:00 AM - started right at 8:00 at the Congress, and it was really quiet. This is the last morning and many delegates may already have gone back home - Dr. Keown left yesterday. Got the idea to walk around a bit and hand out bears closer to where the coffee breaks are held, as ESOT has once again refused to serve food by our booths.

I gave away 4 boxes of bears - more than 500 - in less than 90 minutes! They were coming to me, I didn't even have to go to them. I think because there were less people, those who didn't notice me before finally did, and I wasn't relegated to the horrible non-profit area that ESOT had created. It was behind an elevator lobby if you can imagine so you couldn't even see it from the main area. The other TTS staff were laughing at me - I was just thronged at times with people all around me. Made the morning go by very quickly. Soon an ESOT rep came up to me and told me to go back to my booth. I told him I'd remember this in Vancouver, and he was shocked to find out I was with the organizing committee. He apologized but it was too late - they have treated the Transplantation Society booth like a third-world country and they will receive very little better in Vancouver if I have any say.

12:00 PM - Crowd died out around 11:30, and the Congress officially closed at noon. The exhibits were supposed to be open until 12:30, but we gave up and closed up shop. We only had to send back 2 boxes of bears (less than 300) out of the 2,300 we had brought, so I considered this a smash success. Helped Frank from TTS carry stuff back to his hotel room, and then that was it!

As we were walking back to the hotel, we walked down a hall and out the window I saw what looked like a modern Canadian skyline in the distance (see picture right, click for larger). I was told by Frank that it's a relatively new financial district being built out of nothing in Paris, called La Defense. 1 million sq. m. of offices and housing facilities are to be expected there, to rival London's City district. I read later that French President Nicolas Sarkozy wants to create a 'Grand Paris' to rival New York or London, with a major new transportation system, called 'Arc Express' - 80 miles of new subway linking Paris to the airport, surrounding cities such as Orly, etc., just like Vancouver has done. He expects it done by 2025. The cost? 35 billion euros, or $50 billion US!

1:00 PM - got back to the hotel room, changed and packed the Mountie suit for what may be the last time. However, news flash - Dr. Keown mentioned to me yesterday about me going with him to Venice, Italy next month to a pancreas transplant Congress with about 500 delegates (called the IPIXA-ITA Congress). A girl across from me at another booth, Enrica, was the congress organizer for that meeting - she was Italian herself. We got to be friends over the 4 days we worked together as it was 35 hours at the booth, so I got to learn alot about her country and it sounded interesting. When Dr. Keown made his announcement I just about went into shock. Not confirmed, but sounds promising. It's even longer than this one - 5 days (M-F) starting on Thanksgiving Monday. Part of me is sick of traveling and wearing this outfit, and leaving my friends and little kitty back home. Part of me is looking forward to new adventures and curious about Venice, though I admit that's not really been a place I've been dying to go to. Rome, absolutely, but it's hours away.

Going to all these romantic spots alone is a real downer...haha.

1:30 PM - grabbed a quick sandwich at a local restaurant, which was a bit stale, and brought back to the hotel to eat it and plan the day. As I did, I walked down a street called Boulevard Gouvion St-Cyr, which is where the McDonald's that I've been to a few times. Lots of little delis and stores along this street (picture right, click for larger), which is a really dense residential area with lots of condo buildings that all look the same.

Paris streets are just a nightmare to figure out - almost nothing goes in a straight line for very long, and you might have an intersection that goes 7 directions! Even the architecture adapts to these strange roads (see picture below, click for larger). When you look at a map of the city, it looks like a bunch of spiders spun webs everywhere that eventually just interconnected.

2:30 PM - After making some travel plans and writing down station names, etc. I started off for my daily adventure. I have an ambitious plan, but we'll see if I can make it happen, as it's already 1/2 through the afternoon.

Day 5c - Finally, A Real Meal In Paris!

For events of Tuesday, September 1, 2009

8:00 PM - So weird to go for supper this late but that's when most restaurants kick into evening gear here. Il Naturale, the Italian place I mentioned, was just a block from the front entrance of the Palais des Congres on Grand Armée - relatively inexpensive Italian food, as mentioned before, from the menu I saw in the window, but with a French flair of course.

8:17 PM - It seemed to be getting busy, and all tables outside were full, but I got a table inside right away. You pay more for the privilege of sitting outside, by the way, at most good restaurants in Paris - and I recommend not bothering, because that's where all the smokers sit. Unless the view is worth it (and the Palais des Congress and most of Grand Armée doesn't qualify) there's no benefit to sitting outside. I know all the movies show Parisians eating outside, but that's a myth - you get so much road noise, and gawking tourists looking at your food. Plus, this street gets a bit sketchy at night with the supposed homeless and gypsies coming out of the woodwork at dusk, and they'll come up to your table constantly. I was always more comfortable inside carrying my wallet, camera, phone, etc. anyway.

Some Americans outside are talking so loud you can't think, but they soon left. I made the mistake of saying bonjour instead of bon soir to the waiter when I first came in, and I wanted to speak nothing but French tonight. He switched to English right away because that was a dead giveaway, but I still (with the help of my trusty phrase book, which I hid from view) tried to order, ask for the bill, etc. in French all evening anyway, and he eventually played along. The phrasebook actually writes out how to pronounce everything, which makes it way more fun. But don't get in over your head - you realize if you ask for something in French, they will break into an answer you may not always understand. I actually didn't experience much of a problem. The menu wasn't in English but most French words are close to the English variation so I was ok. Example - "lasagne" is pretty easy to identify as "lasagna" in English.

I ordered a glass of rosé (pink) wine that's sweet (it's cheaper than pop at 4€, and better for you in small doses) and lasagna bolonese for 11,30€. Plus, the wine that I've had here (and I don't really drink much) is 100 times better than the US. Though it seems much stronger in your mouth, it doesn't go to your head like in Canada. I can see how people can drink a whole bottle on their own - not sure if the alcohol content is less, but it seems to affect you less.

By the way, I didn't mention before, but the € sign is always used after the currency, even though I know it looks weird. Sometimes I see it with a space after the number, but I use it without to make it easier to understand I'm talking money. They also use commas, not decimals, to separate euro and cents (yes, it's called the same thing as in Canada) - like "11,30€" = "11 euros, 30 cents". Takes awhile to get used to. Many fancy restaurants, like in Canada, don't bother with the € sign (the price will just say "29" or something like that, without cents). Also, when you get the bill for any purchase - food, etc. - they usually say "EU" or "EUR" after the number - the computerized bills hardly ever show the € sign. I also noticed at McDonald's the other day that they state there's a 5.5% tax, but it's built into the cost of the food.

The waiter first brought a big wine bottle and glass to the table and I panicked - it looked like white wine, and it was clearly a full bottle! I had ordered the pink version so I got scared and wondered if I had to pay for this mistake? But I realized it was water fairly quickly - haha. They don't do glasses of water in Paris, I've learned - and you don't have to ask for it, it comes automatically.

They also bring out bread or some other snack at every restaurant I've heard of so far in Paris, and of course you aren't charged for it. When I first came in, they had a big pile of pre-cut French bread on a table near the front in front of an old-fashioned looking bread warmer (see picture left, click for larger). The waiter picked up a little tin pail from a stack by the warmer, put in a paper napkin as a liner, and chose several pieces of the French bread. Then he opened the warmer and got out a few pieces of what looked like Russian black bread, and brought it all to the table with my wine. You could tell it was all baked fresh that morning - in fact, the French bread may have been baked just hours before I came. It was amazing, and it was really neat to watch them do it in front of you, so you knew it was relatively fresh.

Within about 10 minutes, out came my meat lasagna, which had an unbelievable amount of cheese on it. Lasagna bolonese usually has onions, celery, carrots, and has pork, veal and beef in it, plus tomatoes, pasta and cheese, etc. of course to top it off (see picture right, click for larger). Sorry folks, my camera battery died and I had to use my iPhone camera for the food picture, which doesn't do that great indoors with less lighting.

9:30 PM - after a wonderful meal, I said "apportez-moi l'addition, s'il vous plait" (please bring me the bill - I think I got it perfectly with my phrase book), and it came to about 16€ total. I left a 20€ note and walked slowly back to my hotel. I know that normally people don't tip in Paris, but this guy hustled all night long and was really nice to me with my poor French, so I felt he earned a bit extra.

It's a bit windy and cool out tonight, so didn't really feel like hanging outside too much, but I wasn't in a hurry to walk anywhere. In fact, I don't see anyone anywhere that seems in a hurry to go anywhere. People don't start eating supper/dinner until at least 8 and don't leave restaurants until 11, but rush hour seems to start at 6:30, so not sure when these people sleep.

I felt much more energized than the night before, so I went back to the hotel and watched some TV while I worked more on catching up on the blog. I mostly write it during the day while I'm doing things (while on trains, etc.) to save time and remember everything, so I should catch up fast now.

1:15 AM - stayed up a bit later than I planned, but I wasn't really tired when I decided to hit the sack. I happened to go by the TFI (main French channel here) and they had a French Survivor spin-off called Koh-Lanta!. It was just like the US version with challenges, etc. but was all in French. It also had a French host who wasn't as good as Jeff Probst at all - in fact, he was a bit creepy.

English TV in this hotel sucks. There are 9 channels and 6 of them are news - CNN International, France 24, BBC World, Euronews, Bloomberg, CNBC and NASN (an ESPN sports spin-off for Europe). The only "entertainment" channels are Cartoon Network and the Disney Channel - which itself sometimes had French programs on it. Hannah Montana in French is a bit disturbing - becasue it's just French dubbed over the real show. Kind of silly when you think about it - the whole premise of the show is Miley Cyrus as singer Hannah Montana. Um, who on earth do they use for the French version, and why doesn't she have her own concert tour if she's that good?

CNN International is so much better overseas, and people who travel mostly agree with me. The US version is just a 24-hour commercial for the Democratic Party. Gets so lame after awhile. It's more balanced overseas. My favorite though is BBC World - they have great specials and shows on travel, etc. that are really good. I'll start watching that more on my digital at home when I get back.

I actually like watching French TV - watched CSI Miami last night for a bit, and was entertained with the French voices they chose for the American actors - Horatio Caine sounded almost the same! Cartoon Network is pretty cool too - and pretty funny (more adult oriented) late at night, on Adult Swim (whoops - not that kind of adult, just not for little kids!).

Good night! Last day at the Congress in the morning, and I need to be there at 8:00.

Day 5b - Congress Continues - Exhaustion Builds

For events of Tuesday, September 1, 2009

6:30 AM - Felt like a million dollars when I woke up this morning - man those pills worked. I still feel a bit sleepy even, and slept for almost 11 hours!

7:30 AM - Went down and had a very nice breakfast this morning at the buffet. All items were the same as yesterday, but very good. Not big on the pancakes, however - they just taste weird here. Like I mentioned before, they are like English muffin texture, but flat as a pancake.

8:00 AM - After breakfast, came back to work on my blog - so far behind because I've been so tired and so busy with the Congress. It's really not too nice outside - looking very grey again this morning and a bit windy when you open the window.

10:00 AM - Just heading to the Congress centre for the day, and there's something still digging into my left foot in my boot. I hate this outfit and don't want to wear it ever again if I can help it - but a nice trip somewhere I've never been might convince me...haha.

12:30 PM - Another busy day at the Congress, and we barely even had time with the boxed lunch today, which I didn't like nearly as much as yesterday (and I didn't really like that either). I couldn't eat half of it (see picture left, click for larger). Today we had a pita-type sandwich, cut in half and wrapped in plastic, again chicken - but that was actually better today than yesterday. There was a cheese stick thing that was combined with alternating bran muffin - sounds weird, but actually tasted really good. There was another of those cream cheese hoagie things, and I didn't even open it yesterday but tried it today. Yuck. It had some tomato, etc. mixed in with it - I suppose something for the vegetarians, but honestly, I'd switch to meat if that's all I had to eat. There was also for dessert a bunch of what I think is semi-dried apricots (honestly, I have no idea what it was, but I ate only one and spit it out). The big highlight was dessert - today a lemon-cream mousse cupcake with a lemon-mint coin stuck in it. I actually wanted to get a second one but didn't have time.

4:30 PM - Ugh, the afternoon is just dragging. Yesterday they put a food table close to our booth to generate more traffic - people were ticked off after Sunday's disastrous attendance at the non-profit booths, where our Transplantation Society booth is located. Today, they didn't put the food table in the same place - and there's hardly anyone coming by the booth now. ESOT is doing a trade for booths with us (they get a free one in Vancouver), but their location was terrible, and if I get my way, they are getting exactly the same dismal location in Vancouver.

Regardless, we still consider it a big success so far. Even though we lost an entire day with the bears sitting in customs, there were 16 boxes were delivered, and we have already given away 11 boxes - that's something like 1,500 bears. I was told that 3,000 bears were sent to us, but the math doesn't make sense - there are only 144 bears in each box, so more like 2,300 came.

There were times again today that people were just a blur of hands in my face. I hate to say this, but the worst offenders were an unnamed Asian delegation. One guy came by three times today asking for some for his "kids", and took several each time, hitting on a different person each time. I noticed every time. Finally, on the 4th time, I half-jokingly (but he could tell I was irritated) asked if he was running an orphanage. Never saw him again. I honestly think some of them are going to be on eBay tonight.

Another doctor from the same area came and grabbed at least 15 pens - perhaps their trip to Paris was so expensive they couldn't afford to buy from Office Depot? Having done four Congresses now, it never ceases to amaze me what some doctors will do when they see free stuff, and there is one particular country that is worse than others. They come in packs of 8-10 people and they all want 2 to 3 bears. I finally started refusing more than one, and then they would take them from our display stand on the way by anyway. Grrrr.

The doctors weren't the only culprits. A French lady from another exhibitor booth (a small little company that only sells products in Europe) took at least 1/2 dozen bears, and then came by several times after to get some for her "colleagues" (apparently, though I noticed some of her colleagues came asking for themselves, and there was only 3 people in her booth). I caught on to the game, and today she wanted another set because she "gave most of them away". I had to ask her, in all seriousness, how many people she had working at her booth, because even Novartis and Roche didn't ask for that many bears, and they are multi-billion dollar companies.

She actually had the guts to practically demand that I open boxes just to give her one to complete her "collection" (for the second time) - and I less-than-politely said no. Poor thing can't be totally blamed, she apparently mistook my friendliness for being a push-over. I think she went into shock - I'm pretty sure that's a word she doesn't hear very often. Since I doubt we'd be seeing her company in Vancouver anyway, so "don't let the door hit your butt on the way out, honey".

I don't get rattled at a Congress booth. I'm wearing a police uniform for Heaven's sake, I have to act the part...haha. Some guys would ask for 3 or 4, I'd hand out 1 or 2 and just move on to the next person. They could stand there 5 minutes, I wasn't going to acknowledge their continued requests. These things are worth almost $4 each!

6:45 PM - got back to my room, changed and tried to connect to Internet. Nothing. Paid for it this morning for 24 hours, and it won't connect. I couldn't even get my laptop to connect to the wireless in the room, which is free. Called the Business Centre and they sent up a technician who smelled bad and didn't seem to understand me, but in the end got it all sorted out anyway somehow. He just called a few people to reset the system. Was able to reconnect - but was charged again for it!

I called Business Services back and explained what happened, and they just didn't get it. They promised a manager would call me back to assist.

7:50 PM - A manager was supposed to call me to talk about this in 10 minutes - it's now been 50. I decided I'd waited long enough, so got my jacket out to go out for supper, and went up to the front desk. I told a very nice young lady about the situation, and she understood right away. She immediately credited me, no questions asked. I'm sorry I don't care what Americans think - customer service in Paris is amazing so far. And you only need barebones French to get buy, with most of the important phrases to be found ... by watching Sesame Street. I admit, it's fun to speak a bit of French and realize it means something to the listener, unlike all those years of French classes in my Alberta high school that never got used.

The logic seemed to escape the technician that you can't possibly have two 24-hour charges on your bill - on the same day. 15€ is pretty pricey for the Internet, though I think it's pretty mandatory - the wireless is horribly slow and you can't even have 2 web pages going at once, whereas the high speed is well - medium high speed compared to home, but in fairness I pay for the fastest possible at home. It's much better than my hospital Internet though! It takes forever to do this blog on the wireless because I have to upload all the pictures one by one after editing them.

As I got outside, I decided I wanted to head to an Italian place I saw on Grand Armée yesterday morning, when I discovered the Arc, called Il Naturale. Menu looked decently priced and the place was cute. The rain has stopped (I think it must have gone all day) and as the sun started to go down, the area just looked so cute, I had to snap a few shots of the restaurants in the area (see picture above, click for larger) just across the street from the main entrance to the Palais des Congres,on a side street that connects to Grand Armée where you see these buildings - the opposite end of my hotel entrance) and the Palais des Congress itself (see picture right, click for larger).

Day 5a - Lest We Forget

For events of Tuesday, September 1, 2009

6:00 AM - Just woke up after a really great sleep last night. I feel so much better, and ready to go for the day. Plan to do the same thing tonight and I'll be ready for vacation tomorrow. Not much to do around this immediate area at night anyway - most businesses close around 8:00 PM at the latest, including stores.

6:30 AM - BBC News this morning is broadcasting a major ceremony with all the leaders of Europe in Gdansk, Poland to commemorate the 70th Anniversary of that terrible 1939 morning, at 5:15 AM Polish time, when German soldiers flooded across borders from the south, east and north by land, sea and air - the first shots of World War II had begun. Within two days, Britain and France were forced to declare war on Hitler as they had threatened to do days earlier, should Germany carry out the rumors of invasion.

I read a story in yesterday's Guardian newspaper (from the UK) at breakfast that apparently Russia is now trying to rewrite history, blaming Poland for its own invasion by the Nazis, and declaring that Russia in fact saved the world from the Nazis. Britain and Churchill might have something to say about that.

Russia seems to have forgotten (and is doomed to repeat history?) that Hitler and Stalin actually made a non-aggression pact and agreed to carve up most of Europe between them. They forget that as soon as they had 'liberated Poland' from the Nazis, they enslaved Poland themselves for over 40 years. Just a small gap in memory of events that cost the lives of 50 million people in Europe, Asia and Africa in a six-year war that changed the world forever. Leaders of Europe are meeting this morning in Gdansk, Poland to commemorate the events of that terrible September day. By war's end, over 6 million Poles had been killed in the war.

Yesterday morning I was at the Arc de Triumph, and was reminded of photos from 1940 (see picture left, click for larger) when thousands of German soldiers marched by that very Arch, under the watchful eye of Hitler himself, after they had successfully invaded France and conquered Paris. It was almost creepy standing there yesterday and within half hour, being reminded of the related WWII anniversary. The French want to forget the war sometimes, as it was a dark period in their history, having collaborated with the Germans to avoid being smashed by the Nazi blitzkrieg that hit the rest of Europe. Some say it saved France from assured destruction - others believe that they, like Britain, should have stood their ground to the last man.

7:00 AM - As if even nature reacted to the news, it was a very grey day to start out and rain clouds look like they are coming fast - it's supposed to rain all day today. (see picture right, click for larger). Here is a completely unedited picture of what it looked like this morning - the sun is up, you just can't really see it!

In unrelated news, there is big talk this morning in Europe about a new law that has just been passed making it illegal to import or sell old-fashioned 100 watt electric light bulbs into the European Union by 2012. People are rushing out to stores this morning across Europe to stockpile them, as it won't be illegal to use them, just buy or sell them in Europe. These people are crazy - those stupid new light bulbs have so much mercury in them it's ridiculous. The pendulum really swings back and forth a lot in Europe. I'm sure someone will figure out a way to keep selling them.

Lest we forget.

Day 4b - "...Not A City For Living"

For events of Monday, August 31, 2009

7:20 AM - I was just told by email from Vancouver (it's 10:20 PM there) that our bears should arrive by 9:30 AM at the booth. They will be the first things off the truck this morning, and the office opens at 9:00 AM. I'm not holding my breath, but cautiously optimistic.

7:46 AM - Remember how I was looking for insoles on Sunday and couldn't find anything that I didn't have to mortgage a house for? Well, this morning I was prepping to go to the Congress Centre for 8:00 AM, and my left boot had been digging into my foot. I grabbed my Swiss army knife and was try to cut off a piece of something that was clumped up inside the boot. I yanked and out came....an insole. My insole - from Boston! These were the exact same boots that I had prepped for that city - I recognized instantly the different kind of insoles I had bought for them. Since them they must have been used a lot because they were flattened right out and pretty much useless now. Ugh. Oh well, at least I was able to cut them down to fit the boot better, and the excess stuff shouldn't cut into me today.

8:00 AM - Congress began this morning rather slowly - many people in a session or not yet arrived. Funny how people will pay to come around the world for a Congress and not show up for half of it. I guess they have the excuse to come and get their office to pay for it, and then they disappear!

9:11 AM - was really really tired this morning - I feel like my whole body is slowly shutting down and I have to be here for another 9 hours today, which is so ridiculous. So, for the first time ever, I had an Italian coffee, which was given out for free from the Novartis booth. It's really really strong, and they only put about a cm or 2 in the bottom of your cup. Tastes really good, however, with one sugar and a little cream - almost has a hot chocolate taste to it.

9:12 AM - was preparing for the Italian heart attack to follow, but it never came. The coffee tasted really strong, but caffeine usually hits me hard and this didn't at all - I think I'm going to like Italian coffee from now on!

9:30 AM - Just as I got back to the booth, I discovered the bears had arrived! We ripped open a few boxes and found black bears, which were new! Ooooooh they are so cute! I instantly grabbed 3 bags for our office staff and friends/family, and hid them away. These will go fast. Many people come to our booth and say they saw me in Sydney, Boston or Toronto, and ask if I can give them one that they didn't have before - the whole collection so to speak. I think there are now 6 of them - raccoon, white bear, brown bear, black bear, beaver and moose. I have them all at the office.

12:30 PM - Once the bears arrived, the morning was a blur. So many people came by at once that sometimes I couldn't even look up at them - just handing stuff out. We received 16 boxes and emptied 3-4 in the first 2 hours alone, and each had about 144 in them.

1:00 PM - Lunch was served at the Congress, and it was really neat - and free for everyone! It came in a wooden box (see picture left, click for larger) instead of a bag, and had a full chicken salad sandwich cut in half and wrapped in plastic, another cream cheese sandwich in a hoagie bun wrapped in plastic, a little skewer with 5 pieces of French cheese and some weird stick with dates on it that I didn't at all like, and a pile of grapes topped with a wonderful chocolate mousse cupcake with a chocolate coin stuck in it.

I know I'm going to sound like a hick, but sometimes I think French cooks try too hard to be unique or different, and they end up wrecking the food, because they get too fancy and use ingredients that just taste weird together, or use materials that aren't that fresh.

2:00 PM - Had an interesting chat with a security guard at the Congress, about being in Paris. He was fascinated by the video we were playing about Vancouver, and came to talk to me about it for a minute. I feel like a Tourism Vancouver staffer more than a Congress promoter - more people ask questions about the weather, shopping, attractions etc. than they ever do about the science, etc. of the Congress itself. Whatever gets bodies in chairs - we know they go for the science, but since that's what all Congresses focus on, the location and social events becomes what makes it special.

He made an interesting comment about Paris - he said it's a "good city for tourists, but not a city for living". In other words, great place to visit, but you don't want to live there. I guess it's incredibly expensive to live in, and many people are relegated to the suburbs, which aren't that great. A 2,000 year old city must have some slummy areas, it's almost inevitable. So far, however, it's all anecdotal - I haven't seen anything like that yet.

2:30 PM - had a minute to walk around, and came upon the Internet cafe (see picture right, click for larger), sponsored by Novartis. Really neat - they had both PCs and Macs here, and you could just line up for which one you wanted to use. A really great idea we need to use in Vancouver - I don't remember seeing that anywhere before, but I could be wrong.

4:15 PM - Frank said I could come in at 10:00 AM tomorrow, which is great. I'm so bone tired right now I'm barely functional - I find I'm stuttering some times when I talk to people because my brain just isn't functioning very well. You get so many people come at you at once, you have no down time and you are wearing a very uncomfortable outfit that is actually choking me and killing my feet at the same time. I also have no relief here so I can leave for a bit, like I did in every other Congress, because the congress organizer didn't send a staff member. I'm actually a bit annoyed by that now - there's no excuse for not being here, it's a huge event. Was told yesterday by ESOT organizers that there are 3,500 registrants as of yesterday, plus many that will walk-in register. That brings it closer to 4,000 - and I feel like they all came up to me today!

6:30 PM - Went to a store in the shopping centre connected to Palais des Congres called Galeries Gourmandes, a food store. First real store I've been to in Paris, and it was huge. I'll bet 80% of what I saw I've never seen or tasted before in my life. It was almost overwhelming because I really just wanted to find something familiar, and being so totally exhausted, I didn't have much patience for shopping. I wanted some snacks for the room - I think I mentioned that a can of Coke is €6 - that's $9 Canadian! I bought a 6-pack of Coke for 1/2 that, some "Hollywood" gum, Poulet Roti et Thyme (Roast Chicken and Thyme) chips and a bag of Aglio e Basilico (garle and basil) bruschetta - which were really small and crunchy bruschetta, looking and tasting much like chips. Total bill came to only €10.64, which seemed relatively reasonable to me.

On way back to the hotel, I stopped at a drug store and bought some Lidene brand "insomnie" (sleeping pills). There were 10 in a package for only €2. I just have to get my sleep regulated. I noticed when I did that they don't seem to charge any sales tax here. I asked about it later with some people at the Congress and they told me that in fact the tax is built into the price of everything, so what you see is what you pay. I remember the day we had the same thing (other than PST) - I hate GST even more, having been in France now. In restaurants, you pay exactly what the menu price is as well. Very cool.

When I got back to the room, I looked out the window, and saw the traffic jams still going on at nearly 7:00 PM. I don't know what time Parisians finish work for the day, but holy cow this is bad (see picture left, click for larger).

7:30 PM - took 2 sleeping pills as box directed (at least I think, I can't read French that well but it says there are 10 'comprimes' in the box, and I read something about '2 comprimes' on the back. I watched TV for a few minutes and felt them taking effect right away - wow, North American ones aren't like this! Good night - I'm going to ride the wave and hopefully get caught up on some sleep! Set the alarm for 6:30 AM just to be safe.